|
|
Before you get to actually start weaving,
you need to get your weft ready. In the example on the previous
page, I created a design that had a white border on both
sides. So, I'll use the same white for the weft. This way,
the weft won't "show" at the edges. With a white
border, if I used a black weft, the weft would be visible
at the ends where it left a row of weaving to return at the
next row. If you have a shuttle, wrap the weft thread around
the shuttle until you have a good amount of weft on it. If
you are not using an actual shuttle, you can either make
a shuttle out of just about anything (like a piece of cardboard)
or wrap the threads around your fingers to create "the
butterfly". To do this start with the weft thread in
your open palm. Loosely wrap the thread in a figure-eight
motion around your thumb and pinkie. When you have wrapped
enough, cut the weft and tie it loosely around the center
of the butterfly. The untied end (that you originally laid
in your palm) will be the beginning of the weft. The rest
of the weft (the wings of the butterfly) will pull through
the center tie. Yes, the threads can get caught on each other,
but, if you don't have a shuttle, or anything with which
to make a shuttle, this is your best bet.
Now your loom is warped, your shuttle is wound. But, don't
start weaving just yet. Get familiar with your warp threads
and how to create a shed. Using your right hand, pass
your hand behind the heddles and under the warp. Raise your
hand. Your hand will lift every other thread. The other threads
will be captured by the heddles and will not be able to move
up. You have just created your first shed. That is
the open space in the warp that is in front of the heddles.
It is through this type of shed that the weft will be passed
from left to right. Direction is important.
 Now, remove your hand and, using your left hand,
pass your hand behind the heddles again but this time put
it between the upper and lower part of the warp (so your
hand is between the warp just like the top front peg). This
time, push the threads down. The threads that pass through
the heddles remain up because they pass over that top front
peg. You have now opened another shed. It is this type of
shed through which your shuttle will be passed from right
to left.
Play with your sheds a bit using the correct hands and lifting
or lowering correctly.
You are now ready to weave!
It's up to you to decide from which direction to start.
It really doesn't matter. Open a shed. Pass your shuttle
through the shed. Leave a tail of weft a few inches in length
(about six to eight inches). Make sure the weft is straight
and change sheds. This time, as you pass the shuttle through
the shed, lightly push the previous row with the edge of
the shuttle (or whatever you are using for beating the threads),
just to straighten the weft. Continue to pass the shuttle
the rest of the way out through the shed. Before you change
sheds, you need to pull the two strands of weft that you
now have hanging from the same side of the project. Pull
both at the same time until you no longer see the weft in
the weaving. For your first project don't get it too tight.
Now change sheds again. As you pass the shuttle, again use
it to pack down the threads to get them straight and tight.
Finish the pass and pull this one a little tight to secure
the other edge. With these three passes of your weft, you
should have the warp threads pulled together at both edges
and you should not be seeing the weft encased in the warp.
Getting this right just takes practice. From this point,
you can just keep changing sheds, passing the shuttle and
packing the threads. You're weaving!
Some people use a skewer (or a few rows of facial tissue
or scrap cloth) somewhere in the first passes of the weft.
This keeps the pattern straight. There are times when I use
it and times when I don't. It depends on the material I have
chosen for the warp and how tightly I want to weave. It is
purely optional.
When you run out of weft, weave until you have enough to
make one more pass that will travel about three-quarters
of the way through the shed. Without changing sheds, re-wind
your shuttle and continue weaving in the same direction by
starting in the same shed, overlapping the end of the previous
weft and the new weft. Just be a little careful for the first
couple of passes with the new weft until it becomes secure.
Do not tie weft threads together.
If you break your warp don't panic. Just stop what you are
doing. If your shuttle is in the shed, remove it and set
it aside. Cut just about an inch off each of the broken ends
of the warp (cut more if the ends are severely deteriorated).
Cut a new section of warp and tie, using a square knot) to
each of these ends, trying your best to maintain the tension.
Clip these ties close to the knot and push them down so that
they, and the knot, get buried in the warp with the weft
as much as possible. This is the only way to fix a broken
warp. Depending on the material used, it may or may not show.
When your weaving gets close to the heddles, you will not
be able to open a shed large enough through which to pass
the shuttle. When this happens, loosen the tension on your
tensioning device. Then, using both hands (one on the top
set of warp and one on the bottom set of warp), carefully
slide the woven section toward you, passing it over the top
of the front bar. It will then pass under the front bar and
away from you following the path of the warp. After you have
moved it, reset the tension and continue weaving.
When the weaving is completed to the point where the starting
part of the weaving has traveled the full warp path and is
at the top front peg, you have to stop. You will not be able
to progress further. It is now time to remove and finish
the strip. |
